Kids of all ages love lighthouses, those romantic beacons of man's
humanity to his fellow man, poised defiantly at the littoral edges of
civilization. So much so, in fact, that they are usually sorry to
leave at the end of the day. But at the Rose Island Lighthouse in
Rhode Island's Narragansett Bay, there is no need for sadness: The end
of the day can be the start of an overnight stay, one that is sure to
be a highlight of any family vacation.
THE LIGHTHOUSE
Located just a mile west of forever fashionable Newport (access is via
the Jamestown- Newport ferry), Rose Island is an 18-acre, pork
chop-shaped parcel of wind-swept scrubland positioned strategically
between Newport Harbor and the Providence ship channel. Most of the
island, which was a munitions storage facility during both World Wars,
is now a wildlife refuge. It's off limits during the nesting season,
April 1 to Aug. 15.
The white-framed, mansard-roofed lighthouse was built in 1869 atop the
remains of an 18th century fort. Abandoned in 1971, when the
completion of the towering Newport Bridge obviated the need for its
single, revolving beam, the lighthouse would have fallen victim to the
elements if not for the efforts of the nonprofit Rose Island
Lighthouse Foundation.
Restoration to its 1912 appearance began in 1984, and in 1993, the
beacon was ceremoniously relit for the benefit of both day-trippers
and their more adventurous counterparts.
ROUGHING IT
"Adventurous" because - as the Rose Island Lighthouse Foundation is
quick to point out - this is not a bed-and-breakfast, but a live-in
museum. Overnight guests (as opposed to "full" keepers, who stay a
week and are required to work) must bring their own food (outdoor gas
grills and an indoor propane burner are available for cooking) and
they must bring it in their own coolers. They also must avail
themselves of the communal hand-pump toilets (the one inside is to be
used only at night) and the outdoor solar showers. Although they are
free to stay as long as they want the next day, overnight guests, who
sleep in the two downstairs bedrooms, are required to strip and remake
their beds (linens are provided) and stow their belongings before 10
a.m., when the first of the day-trippers arrive.
WHAT TO DO
Even when confined to the lighthouse grounds, there is plenty for kids
to do, including swim, fish and scavenge for shells and sea glass. Not
surprisingly, the most popular activity for parents is relaxing in
deck chairs with the beverages of their choice (including beer, wine
and liquor) while watching the sailboats and yachts of Newport tack
back and forth across the gray-blue waters of the harbor and the cargo
ships churn up or down the channel.
A popular after-dinner activity is roasting marshmallows at the
beachside campfire while watching the lights of Newport drift in and
out of summer fog. Should the weather drive you inside, just crank up
the vintage Victrola in the library and enjoy a rousing game of
Chinese checkers before retiring.
DETAILS
Each of the lighthouse's two downstairs bedrooms can accommodate two
adults and costs $165 weekdays and $175 weekends, April to June and
September to October; $175 weekdays and $185 weekends, July to Labor
Day, and $155 weekdays and $165 weekends November to March. There is
also an upstairs bunk-room for children (5-12), who pay $30 a night,
$15 if they bring their own sleeping bags; extra sleeping cots are
available. Secure overnight parking on Goat Island costs $10, and
round-trip tickets on the Newport-Jamestown ferry, $14 a person (5 and
younger free). Contact the Rose Island Lighthouse Foundation, P.O. Box
1419, Newport, RI 02840; 401-847-4242;
www.RoseIslandLighthouse.org